The Malvern Hills

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Grid Reference: SO 77488 46027

https://www.visitthemalverns.org/walk/north-hill/ 

Duration: 2 hours

Distance: 2.5 miles

A circular walk around North Hill, beginning and ending in the centre of Great Malvern.

North Hill forms the northern end of the Malvern Hills and as you circle the hill you will be awarded stunning views over the Worcestershire plain to the east, the Lickey and Clent Hills to the north, the Black Mountains and hills of Shropshire to the west and northwest.

This is not a walk that breaks you in gently, quite the opposite. As you head up St Ann’s Way there is a steep road climb, followed by a steep tarmac path climb, topped off with a steep flint path climb, but (with the occasional stop to ostensibly take photos) we reached the first level area after about 20 minutes or so.

The walk climbs to over a height of around 200m, always on wide well-defined paths, but with some quite steep sections as noted, in particular the zig-zag bends on the outgoing section of the walk are fun.

At the start of the walk, parked in the Erith Walk car park, you pass the Theatre of Small Convenience founded by local performer and puppeteer Dennis Neale in 1997. In 2002 it entered the Guinness Book of World Records as the world's smallest commercial theatre, seating up to 12 people. The theatre's name comes from the building's original purpose; it was converted from a derelict Victorian gentlemen's public convenience.

Once we reached the first levelish area the views really opened up as the Malvern Hills have some of the most expansive and atmospheric in England, which, on a clear day, you get a sweeping 360° panorama that feels almost cinematic. Our day was fairly clear but with some dramatic clouds adding to the mid-March weather mood.

Looking west, the land drops away dramatically into the lush green countryside of Herefordshire with patchwork fields, hedgerows, and scattered farms stretching toward the distant outline of the Black Mountains (apparently even the Brecon Beacons if visibility is good).

To the east, the scenery is gentler and more densely settled with the plains of Worcestershire spread out below you, towns, villages, and farmland all blending together in a perfect English landscape (people say you can glimpse as far as the Cotswolds and even toward Birmingham on a perfectly clear day).

Looking north and south, the ridge of the hills themselves rolls away in a long arching spine, with peaks like Worcestershire Beacon rising prominently. 

It’s this combination of height, openness, and constantly shifting light that inspired artists and composers like Edward Elgar, who lived nearby, and drew in walkers including J R Tolkien and C S Lewis.

At the start of the walk, you pass a ‘stable’ with wicker donkeys standing, looking out, and this is a reminder of the time when donkeys were available to carry tourists up to the top of the hills. Records exist of them being used to transport the sick to the healing waters on the Malvern Hills from the 12th century. In the 1800’s when Great Malvern became a popular spa resort the donkeys became increasingly popular and busy.

Back up near the top the paths move easily up and around the various hills, from north to south include North Hill, Sugarloaf Hill, Worcestershire Beacon, Summer Hill, Hangman's Hill, and Chase End Hill.

It was appreciated that there are many benches to rest and recover/enjoy the views.

A few random facts about the hill:

• The hills contain some of the oldest rocks in England, formed over 600 million years ago from volcanic activity
• The range is formed by igneous and metamorphic rock that was once underwater near the equator before being pushed up
• Malvern Water is famously pure and was historically marketed as containing ‘nothing at all’
• The highest point is the Worcestershire Beacon, rising 425 metres (1,394 ft) above sea level
• The ‘British Camp’ at Herefordshire Beacon is an ancient Iron Age hill fort with massive earthworks still visible
• Queen Elizabeth I drank the water, and in 1622, the Holy Well became the first to bottle it
• Victorian visitors, including Charles Darwin and Charles Dickens, flocked to the town for the ‘water cure’

Beginning the descent on the winding, hairpin style paths, you arrive at St Ann’s Well. Many wells, springs and spouts can still be found on the hillside and St Ann’s Well has a long history of welcoming visitors, these days with its cafe enjoying the spectacular views over the Severn Plain. The Grade II listed building is owned and cared for by the Malvern Hills Trust who have recently undertaken a substantial restoration project to secure the future of the building.

A sign above the well declares:

‘Drink of this crystal fountain and praise the lord, who from this rocky mountain this living stream out-poured, fit emblems of the holy fount that flows from God’s eternal mount’ 1892.

There is further sign outside the building that remembers ‘Blind George’ who for over 50 years played his harmonium at St Ann’s Well. 

A final walk down takes you back to your starting position.

And for refreshment then at the bottom of St Ann’s Way you will find not one but two pubs ready to aid your recovery, The Red Lion and The Unicorn, the latter of which has the amusing sign outside that has one arrow points to ‘Massive Fxcking Hill’ and the other to ‘nice pint’, so your choice.